It's 1040 and we are sitting on our own in a train carriage designed to take bikes - to be fair - it is also designed for wheelchair users who have priority over us, but for the moment, it is just us, our bikes and an incredibly cheerful guard.
Our diaries were just too full to fit in a camp this holiday, so we have opted to do a day trip or two instead. This one was taking us along the National Cycle Route 2 to find some more mileposts
The train had terminated in Southampton. The crew swap ends and the train then retraces its 'steps' back along the coast. At every stop, more people board and few alight. It is getting progressively hotter and busier as we head towards our goal. We decide to get out at the earliest opportunity and count down the stations till Portslade. We had already used the big map guide from Sustrans and had calculated that this would be the best station to start our quest.
We left the train, walked less than 20 steps to the main road, crossed the level crossing and headed towards the sea. Finding the sea was the easy part - finding how to get onto the NCN2 was proving a little more difficult. We could see where it was and where it was going, but we couldn't see how to get there at all. Jo found a track on a grass slope. We scooted down it and were finally on route to find our first Millennium milepost.
If you are not sure what these things are or what milepost bagging is - take a look at my explanation here.
Our first post was highly camouflaged by the hedge growing around Western lawns. But it was not hidden enough to escape our eagle eyes as we headed towards the traffic lights.
It was in dire need of some TLC as it was clear that the sea air had not been kind to it at all. We wished it well and rejoined route 2 as it took us away from the busy main road and onto the promenade. It was nice to see the efforts Brighton City Council have made to make cycling safer in the area, giving up road space for a cycle lane and had obviously invested heavily in a fleet of quite popular hire bikes. (Well we saw lots of them in use!)
The second milepost was hidden from the main road by King Alfred Sports centre but clearly seen from the shore and most importantly from route 2. This one again was showing its age and crying out for some rust treatment.
Onward to find number 3. This one was in the most prominent position. Right in front of the pier. I couldn’t believe that this too was stripped down to bare rust. Knowing how flamboyant Brighton can be, I was expecting a set of very colourful posts and was taken aback by the lack of paint on them. Maybe there is an art college or school somewhere that could get involved with a new colour scheme? Even if it were painted the same colour as the railings behind, it would last a good few more years. I’m pretty sure the people visiting the pier didn’t give it a first glance let alone a second!
I, on the other hand, was busy changing colour as my cheeks started to match my jersey.
On to number 4. This one was next to the terminus of Volk’s electric railway, which was first opened in 1883. And still going strong. Though 118 years its junior, this poor milepost was definitely looking its age if not the age of the railway. Some of the inscriptions were barely readable, though we could see which direction Peacehaven was and that Rottingdean was on our route ahead. This was such a shame as it was the only post with its back to the sea thus making arguably the nicest backdrop of them all.
We decided that this was a good place to stop for the lunch we’d carried with us. We moved down onto the pebbles, to be further away from a set of speakers being erected by a local resident playing music (of his choice) for those making the most of the sunshine. I was very impressed with his highly portable equipment. (The stands folded down to fit into a relatively small rucksack) I was less impressed with the music.
Lunch eaten, water drunk and more sun lotion applied, we headed on towards Brighton marina where we got a little confused by the various blue signs. Jo had ridden this stretch once before, on her way to Dover, but there had been building work done since then.
We found the NCN2 signs on a path next to the top road and even though Jo didn’t remember the scenery, from the last time she’d been this way, we continued following the signs hoping that it would all become clear.
‘I’m sure I would have remembered that’ Jo said as we stopped to take photos of the Beacon windmill ahead and having just said the similar about the massive 'Blind Veterans Association buildings - with the most amazing view over the channel. We checked our route again and looked out for the next blue sign. Yes, we were definitely on route 2. Did I mention it was hot?
Route 2 disappeared and was replaced by a ‘Cyclists rejoin carriageway’ as we got to a pretty nasty junction in Rottingdean and a steep uphill climb, just when we could really have done with a little segregation!
But we continued following the coast road. We were once again directed onto a segregated cycle path where we slowly worked our way towards our goal of Newhaven.
At Telscombe, a crossing offered a choice of NCN route. We decided to cross to the inner route and a small family just behind us, did the same. Both parents carried bulging panniers, while their young son zipped ahead - loving his baggage-free life.
Apparently one of the panniers was full of his Lego - which he was busy promising to carry himself next year. They were also Newhaven bound, but that was their stop for the night, from which they would catch a ferry to Dieppe in the morning. They had been travelling a couple of days now, slowly (20 miles a day) making their way from Woking to Paris. What an adventure for the young chap! One, I hope, he will appreciate for many years to come. They had completed the Hadrians cycleway when their son was only four! And had also ridden the Coast and Castles route. But this was a longer, more involved challenge.
We had all opted for the promise of one less mile and quieter roads slightly inland. After some miles of chat, they took a shady snack break while we continued on.
5 miles later, we were on the outskirts of Newhaven. The cycleway was in a terrible state - though segregated, it was full of potholes and glass. We had lost the blue signs and asked a passing pedestrian the way, he pointed down the main road and said there is only one way - we found out as we returned to this spot later, that he was no cyclist and had no idea that a right turn here would provide a much nicer and safer route (once you had climbed the hill that is!)
We continued down the coast road, which was getting busier and busier ending up on a dual carriageway and extended roundabout. It was a relief to jump off at a small side road running along the river Ouse.
A quick check on the Sustrans website confirmed that we were on the correct side of the water. A cormorant statue stared at us from a post in the river, and a second one stretched its wings above a seating area near some small shops. We headed on, lured by the Google maps promise of a cafe.
Milepost number 5 of the day (and #15 of our quest so far) was also guarded by a cormorant statue. This time on her nest.
We were so pleased to see that this post had been painted and stood proudly pointing its way across from the ferry port. It was sad to see that the quiz disk was missing - I hope due to the repaint rather than anything else.
Once we’d taken the photos we headed round to the cafe only to find that it shuts at 3 on weekdays. They were still busy clearing up from their busy day but were more than happy to refill our water bottles.
We grabbed an ice cream from the Onestop next door and planned our return cycle. We were both exhausted and very hot! The family from earlier rode straight past our shady stop. They had found the right route!
One advantage of searching for mileposts is that you can guarantee you are on an NCN. We followed the route back realising our mistakes in Newhaven and a missed choice of the undercliff path right back at the marina.
The undercliff route made for a much nicer ride back, with a much-needed stop for another drink at the Whitecliff cafe. It was really hot by now! And I was beginning to shake with the heat. It wasn't surprising, Garmin was reading at least 34 right now. We soon made it back to the marina and retraced our steps back to the pier. We grabbed some chips on the seafront as we’d not eaten anything since our early lunch.
We were now on the lookout for cycle signs to the station, but these didn’t appear till much further down the promenade. We followed them, heading up a very steep hill, got stopped at every single light, making it to the station 5 mins after the train left.
We had two travel options - one involved a change at Barnham the other was later but straight through. Thankfully we chose the former, our good choice was not verified till sat waiting for our second train at Barnham. We listened as an announcement was given that the other train we could have been on was now cancelled.
Relieved, we pushed our bikes onto the Southampton-bound train and relaxed in the air-conditioned bike/disabled carriage for the final hour of the journey.
Once in Southampton, Jo jumped onto a Winchester-bound train and I headed home for a well-needed shower and well-earned coffee.
Once home, I checked the temperature graph of the route and was astounded that the top temperature of the ride was 38 degrees. No wonder I was shattered!
Thank you Jo for your great company on a crazy day such as this.
Post script - I’ve just spoken to one of the Sustrans volunteers in the area and asked about the Brighton posts. She clarified that this was the original wishes of the designer of these posts. Mills, the artist, felt that the posts should weather naturally especially the ones by the sea, so he stipulated that they were not painted.
He has since passed away and the volunteers are keen to treat these posts at the very least, but unfortunately cannot gain permission from the local council who owns the land they are on. It would be such a shame to see these erode away due to a lot of red tape. The volunteers have been fighting their corner for the last 15 years. I wish them every success!
All photos are mine unless otherwise stated.
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